Rain In the Mountains Read online

  *

  Bijju is right at the top of a big oak. The branches sway to his movements. He grins down at me and waves. The higher he is in the tree, the more confident he becomes. It is only when he is down on the ground that he becomes shy and speechless.

  He has allowed the cows to wander, and presently his mother’s deep voice can be heard calling, ‘Neelu, Neelu!’ (The other cows don’t have names.) And then: ‘Where is that wretched boy?’

  *

  Sir Edmund Gibson has come up. He spends the summer in the big house just down the road. He is wheezing a lot and says he has water in his lungs—and who wouldn’t, at the age of eighty-six.

  ‘Ruskin, my advice to you,’ he says, ‘is never to live beyond the age of eighty.’

  ‘Well, once ought to be enough, sir.’

  He is a big man, but not as red in the face as he used to be. His Gurkha manservant, Tirlok, has to push him up the steep slope to my gate.

  Sir Edmund was once the British Resident in the Kathiawar states. He knew my parents in Jamnagar, when I was just five or six. He is a bachelor and is looked after by his servants.

  His farm at Ramgarh doesn’t make any money and he will probably give it to his retainers.

  When Sir Edmund was Resident, he was once shot at from close range by a terrorist. The man took four shots and missed every time. He must have been a terrible shot, or perhaps the pistol was faulty, because Sir E presents a very large target.

  He also treasures two letters from Mahatma Gandhi, which were written from prison.

  ‘I liked Gandhi,’ says Sir E. ‘He had a sense of humour. No politician today has a sense of humour. They all take themselves far too seriously. But not Gandhi. He took his work seriously, but not himself. When I went to see him in prison, I asked him if he was comfortable, and he smiled and said, “Even if I was, I wouldn’t admit it!”’

  Sir E’s servant brings tea, but there isn’t any milk. I think I have exhausted Bijju’s supply.

  Now it’s dusk and the trees are very still, very quiet. Far away I can hear the chuk-chuk-chuk of a nightjar. The lights on Landour hill come on, one by one. Prem is singing in the kitchen. There is a whirr of wings as the king-crows fly into the trees to roost for the night. A rustling in the dry leaves below the window. A snake? Field rats? Porcupines? It is now too dark to find out. The day has ended, and the trees move closer together in the dark.

  *

  We are treated to one of those spectacular electric storms which are fairly frequent at this time of the year, late spring or early summer. The clouds grow very dark, then send bolts of lightning sizzling across the sky, lighting up the entire range of mountains. When the storm is directly overhead, there is hardly a pause in the frequency of the lightning; it is like a bright light being switched on and off with barely a second’s interruption.

  John Lang, writing in Dickens’s magazine Household Words in 1853, almost exactly 120 years ago, had this to say about one of our storms:

  I have seen a storm on the heights of Jura—such a storm as Lord Byron describes. I have seen lightning, and heard thunder in Australia; I have, off Tierra del Fuego, the Cape of Good Hope, and the coast of Java, kept watch in thunderstorms which have drowned in their roaring the human voice, and made everyone deaf and stupefied; but these storms are not to be compared with a thunderstorm at Mussoorie or Landour.

  Forgotten today, Lang was a popular writer in the mid- nineteenth century. He was also a successful barrister, who represented the Rani of Jhansi in her litigation with the East India Company. He spent his last years in Mussoorie and was buried in the Camel’s Back cemetery. His grave proved to be almost as elusive as his books and I found it with some difficulty, overgrown with moss and periwinkle. Prem and I cleaned it up until the inscription stood out quite clearly.

  Prem won’t come home on a stormy night like this. He is afraid of the dark, but more than that, he is afraid of thunderstorms. It is as though the gods are ganging up against him. So he will spend the night in the school quarters, where he is visiting his mother who is staying there with relatives. In the morning he will turn up with a sheepish grin, saying it got very late and he didn’t want to wake me in the middle of the night.

  *

  In the morning he turns up with a sheepish grin, saying it got very late and he didn’t want to wake me in the middle of the night.

  I try to feign anger, but it is a gloriously fresh and spirited morning; impossible to feel angry. A strong breeze is driving the clouds away, and the sun keeps breaking through The birds are particularly active. The king-crows (who weren’t here last year), seem to have taken up residence in the oaks. I don’t know why they are called crows. They are slim elegant black birds, with long forked tails, and their call, far from being a caw, is quite musical, though slightly metallic. The mynahs are very busy, very noisy, looking for a nesting site in the roof. The babblers are raking over fallen leaves, snapping up absent- minded grasshoppers. Now and then, the whistling-thrush bursts into song, and then all other bird sounds pale into insignificance. Bijju has taken his cows to pasture and now scrambles up the hill, heading for home; he is late for school, and that is why he is in a hurry. He waves to me.

  Both he and Prem have the high cheek-bones and the deep- set eyes of the hill people. Prem, of course, is tall and dark. Bijju is small and fair; but he will grow into a sturdy young fellow.

  The rain has driven the scorpions out of their rocks and crevices. I found one sitting on a loaf of bread. Up came his sting when we disturbed him. Prem tipped him out on the veranda steps and he scurried off into the bushes. I do not kill insects and other small creatures if I can help it, but there is a limit to my hospitality. I spared a centipede yesterday even though, last year, I was bitten by one which had occupied the seat of my pyjamas. Our hill scorpions and centipedes are not as dangerous as those found in the plains, and probably the same can be said for the people.

  Prem tells me that his uncle is immune to scorpion stings, and allows himself to be stung in order to demonstrate his immunity. Apparently his mother was stung by a scorpion shortly before his birth!

  Azure butterflies flit about the garden like flakes of sky.

  Learnt two new words:

  bosky = wooded, bushy (bosky shadows); girding = jesting, jeering (girding schoolboys, girding monkeys).

  *

  Poor old Sir E is in a bad way. He has diarrhoea, and little or no control over the muscles that play a part in controlling the bowels. The Gurkha servant called me, and I went over with some tablets. Sir E looked quite exhausted and was panting from the exertion of walking from his bed to the toilet. The Gurkha is very good—gives Sir E his bath, dresses him, helps him on with his pyjamas.

  Grateful for my alacrity in coming over with some medicine, Sir E offers me a whisky and soda (the first time he has ever done this), and pours himself a stiff brandy. He dozes off now and then, but the laboured breathing won’t stop. He is a tough old tree, but I think he is beginning to find his massive frame something of a burden.

  I make an attempt at conversation.

  ‘Were you at Oxford or Cambridge?’

  ‘Oxford. I joined Oxford in 1905 and left in 1909. Came out to India in 1910.’

  He has an excellent memory, unlike Mr Biggs (a retired headmaster) who is ten years younger but will repeat the same story thrice in ten minutes.

  ‘And when were you knighted?’ I ask.

  ‘1939 or 1940.’

  He is too tired to do much talking. I let him doze off, and give my attention to the whisky. The log fire burns well, the flames cast their glow on Sir E’s white hair and hanging jowls. The stertorous breathing grows in volume. He wakes up suddenly, complains that the fire is too hot; Tirlok opens the window. I finish the whisky; he doesn’t offer another. It is his supper time, anyway, and I suggest soup and toast. ‘Call me in the night if you have any trouble,’ I say. He looks very grateful. The loneliness must press upon him a great deal.

  I go
out into the night. The trees are bending to a strong wind. From the foliage comes a deep sigh, the voice of leagues of trees sleeping and half disturbed in their sleep. The sky is clear, tremendous with stars.

  *

  For the first time this year I hear the barbet, a sure sign the summer is upon us. Its importunate cry carries far across the hills. It can keep this up for hours, like a beggar. Indeed, its plaint—unneow, unneow!—has been likened in the hills to that of the spirit of the village moneylender who has died before he can collect his dues. (‘Unneow!’ is a cry for justice!)

  It is difficult to spot the barbet. It is a fat green bird (no bigger than a myna, but fatter), and it usually perches at the very top of a deodar or cypress.

  The whistling-thrush comes to bathe in the rainwater puddle. Sir E is much better and is sitting outside in the shade of an old oak. They are probably about the same age. What a rugged constitution this man must have; first, to survive, as a young man, all those diseases such as cholera, typhoid, dysentery, malaria, even the plague, which carried off so many Europeans in India (including my father); and now, an old man, to live and battle with congested lungs, a bad heart, weak eyes, bad teeth, recalcitrant bowels, and god knows what else, and still be able to derive some pleasure from living. His old Hillman car is equally indestructible. But, like Sir E, it can’t get up the hill any more; he uses it only in Dehradun.

  I think his longevity is due simply to the fact that he refuses to go to bed when he is unwell. No amount of diarrhoea, or water in his lungs, will prevent him from getting up, dressing, writing letters, or getting on with the latest Wodehouse (a contemporary of his) or Blackwood’s Magazine, to which he has been subscribing for the last fifty years! He was pleased to find that some of my own essays were appearing in Blackwood’s. Nothing will keep him from his 4 o’clock tea or his evening whisky and soda. He is determined, I am sure, to die in his chair, with all his clothes on. The thought of being taken unawares while still in his pyjamas must be something of a nightmare to him.

  (His favourite film, he once told me, was They Died With Their Boots On.)

  *

  The cicadas are tuning up for their first summer concert. Even Mrs Biggs, who is hard of hearing, can hear them.

  Yesterday I met her on the road above the cottage and exchanged pleasantries. Up at Wynberg the girls’ choir was hard at practice.

  ‘The girls are in good voice today,’ I remarked.

  ‘Oh yes, Mr Bond,’ she said, presuming I meant the cicadas. ‘They do it with their legs, don’t they?’

  A week in Delhi. It is still only early summer, but the heat almost knocks one over. Slept on a roof, along with thousands of mosquitoes. It cools off in the early hours, but only briefly, before the sun comes shouting over the rooftops. The dust lies thick on floors, leaves, books, people. May’s golden dust!

  Now, back in the hills, I am struck first of all by the silence. The house, too, makes itself felt. It has been here too long not to have acquired a personality of its own. It is not a cheerful looking place, nor is it exactly gloomy. My bedroom is rather dark, (because it faces the abrupt slope of the hillside) but there is a wild cherry growing just outside the window—a cherry tree which I nurtured ever since it was a tiny seedling, five or six years ago, and which has now grown so tall that the branches tap against the roof whenever there is a breeze. It is a funny sort of cherry because it flowers in November instead of in the spring like other fruit trees. Small birds and small boys willingly eat the berries, which are too acid for adult palates.

  The sitting-room, with its two big windows looking out on the forest, is a bright room. Most of the wall space is taken up by my books. The rugs are worn and tattered—they have been with the house right from the beginning, I think—and I can’t afford new ones.

  On books and friends I spend my money;

  For stones and bricks I haven’t any.

  Sir E, quite recovered from his recent illness, has gone down to Dehra again to attend to his farm and the demands of his farm workers. He should be back at the end of the month.

  The brilliant blue-black of the whistling-thrush shows up best when the sun is glinting off its back, but this seldom happens, because the bird likes to keep to the shade where it is almost black. Hopping about, it reminds me of Fred Astaire dancing in top hat and tails.

  Now that it’s getting hot, my small pool attracts a number of afternoon visitors—the mynahs, babblers, a bulbul, a magpie. After their dip they perch in the cherry tree to dry themselves and I can watch them without getting up from my bed, where I take an afternoon siesta. I reserve the afternoons for doing nothing. ‘Silence and non-action are the root of all things,’ says Tao. Especially on a drowsy afternoon.

  But I haven’t seen the whistling-thrush for several days. Perhaps he is offended at having to share the pool which he was the first to discover. I haven’t heard his song either, which probably means that he has moved down to the stream where it is cooler and shadier.

  *

  Prem’s mother and younger sister come for a few days. His mother is a very quiet woman and doesn’t say much even to her son. She is quite handsome, although she looks rather worn and tired, due probably to her recent illness.

  His little sister, about four, is a friendly little gazelle; not in the least pretty, but lively and intelligent. She will have to stay here for at least six months to be properly treated for her incipient tuberculosis. There is no treatment to be had in their village.

  While I am resting, still exhausted from an attack of hill dysentery (who called this a health resort?), Sir E blows in, red- faced, as distressed as a stranded whale. His Gurkha servant has walked out, after quarrelling with his wife and mother-in- law, and has taken with him his twin sons (aged one and a half). I calm Sir E, tell him Tirlok will be back in a day or two—he is probably trying to show how indispensable he is! Sir E takes out a cigarette and strikes a match, and the entire match-box flares up, burning a finger. Definitely not his day. I apply Burnol.

  ‘It’s all that damned girl’s fault,’ he says. ‘She has a vile temper, just like her mother. We were very wise not to marry, Ruskin.’

  Wise or not, I seem to have acquired a family all the same.

  Hundreds of white butterflies are flitting through the forest.

  *

  When Prem told his mother that I kept a human skull in my sitting-room (given to me by Anil, a medical student, and not pinched from the cemetery as some suppose), she told him not to spend too much time near it. If he did, he would be possessed by the spirit of the woman who had originally inhabited the skull.

  But Prem, at the present time, is immune to spirits, having succumbed to the charms of his young wife who stays downstairs with his mother. They have only been married a few months. He leans over the balcony, chatting with her; advises her on how to keep the courtyard clean; then makes her a small broom from the twigs of a wild honeysuckle bush. She enjoys all the attention she is getting.

  The sky is overcast this morning. Dust from the plains has formed a thick haze which hides the valley and the mountains. We are badly in need of rain. Down in the plains, over 200 people have died of heatstroke.

  I haven’t seen Bijju for some days, but this morning his sister, Binya, was out with the cows. What a sturdy little girl she is; and pretty, too. I will write a story about her.1

  *

  ‘We’ll take you to the pictures one day, Sir Edmund.’

  ‘Yes, I must see one more picture before I die.’

  So there comes a time when we start thinking in terms of the last picture, the last book, the last visit, the last party. But Sir E’s remark is matter-of-fact. He is given to boredom but not to melancholy. And he has a timeless quality. I have noticed this in other old people; they look more permanent than the young.

  He sums it all up by saying, ‘I don’t mind being dead, but I shall miss being alive.’

  *

  A number of small birds are here to bathe and drink
in the little pool beneath the cherry tree: hunting-parties of tits—grey tits, red-headed tits and green-backed tits, and two delicate little willow warblers. They take turns in the pool. While the green-backs are taking a plunge, the red-heads wait patiently on the moss-covered rocks, coming down later to sip daintily at the edge of the pool; they don’t like getting their feet wet! Finally, when they have all gone away, the whistling-thrush arrives and indulges in an orgy of bathing, as he now has the entire pool to himself.

  The babblers are adept at snapping up the little garden skinks that scuttle about in the leaves and grass. The skinks are quite brittle and are easily broken to pieces with a few hard raps of the beak. Then down they go! Babblers are also good at sifting through dead leaves and seizing upon various insects.

  The honeybees push their way through the pursed lips of the antirrhinum and disappear completely. A few minutes later they stagger out again, bottoms first.

  *

  1 June

  The dry spell continues. It is only before sunrise that there is any freshness in the air.

  At dawn I said, ‘Day, you will not begin without me.’ I was up with the whistling-thrush at five. The cicadas were tuning up, the crickets were already in full cry, and the whistling- thrush was calling most sweetly. As none of these songsters could be seen, it was as though the forest itself was singing.

  Feeling the dawn wind stir, I was happy that I had met the day at its very beginning.

  When the sun came up, the day became sultry and oppressive. I had to walk two miles to Ban Suman and back. There was no shade anywhere along the road. But we are equipped with legs for the purpose of walking. As more and more people grow dependent on their cars, a new species of humans will evolve. Around the turn of the twenty-second century, I can see legless humans being born. By then, of course, there will be flying wheelchairs.

  A pall of dust hangs over the mountain.

  Someone asked Sir E if he could shoot a bird on his land at Ramgarh. The man wanted the bird for dissection in a biology lab. Sir E refused.